Bolzano: Gateway to The Dolomites
Often called the Gateway to the Dolomites, Bolzano is the largest city in South Tyrol and a charming escape for anyone in the mood for an Italian autumn adventure! From street vendors selling hot roasted chestnuts to hidden wine bars and looming castles, Bolzano in Autumn is truly an indulgence worth savoring.
Arrival into this quaint city is most easily managed by train, and with a 5 hour journey from Milan there is ample opportunity to enjoy the views as you wind your way towards Italy’s northern border. Upon arrival into the small station, the snow capped peaks of the Dolomites greet you while golden leafed trees wave from their posts along the wide avenue. Aside from the predictable challenge of rolling a suitcase down cobbled streets, the walk from the station into the historic center is quick and painless. Storefronts and homes are colorfully painted with trims and details reflective of a long history of Germanic-Italian influence while restaurants and food carts showcase a delectable array of classic Tyrolean fare.
If looking for a small, local accommodation, Bogen Bistro & Apartments offers five beautifully decorated and welcoming units above their first floor bistro that make for a comfortable stay with convenient access to the downstairs eatery. Stop in for a coffee and a warm breakfast or plan for a filling lunch or dinner with one of their many savory and local dishes. Located just around the corner from the open air market, their central location also makes them a perfect place to sit and people watch with a good book in hand.
Within the historic center, Bolzano manages to pack in quite a few curious and delightful discoveries. Consider a visit to see Ötzi the caveman at the Museum of Archaeology - whose perfectly preserved remains are on display in a cold chamber. Or perhaps an afternoon enjoying locally crafted beer at Hopfen & Co followed by a stroll through the open air market of Piazza delle Erbe where chestnuts are roasted, speck, salami, and fine cheeses are sold, and bountiful bouquets of flowers and fruit-ladened stands line the street. Time your visit properly and you can even enjoy the Christmas Market in Piazza Walther.
Nearby Castel Roncolo perched at the cusp of Sarntal Valley is also a noteworthy visit, and while a willingness to climb their steep entry path is required, the reward is well worthwhile. Also known as the Painted Castle of Bolzano, Roncolo is home to one of Europe’s largest collections of secular medieval frescos and has stunning views of the vineyards, churches, and homes nestled into the valley below. Cooler weather may likely keep many visitors away outside of the summer months so you may find yourself perusing the castle in blissful solitude if you time it right! Be sure to walk up to the sloped vineyards for unobstructed views of the valley.
Aside from the musings, meals, and entertainments found within and around Bolzano itself, there is the wider range of the Dolomites to consider! Rent a car from Drivalia at the central station and enjoy the freedom of day trips and a circuit route through the famous peaks. While cable cars and lifts up to places like Seceda or Alpe di Siusi may be closed in autumn for maintenance, the small towns and villages of Val Gardena make for a charming lunch stop and breathtaking views. Still keen to take the lifts to the peaks? Opt for a December visit & enjoy the ski and toboggan season!
